Here you can search through the pages of this Namespace, their attachments and the files uploaded to the system.
Note: the results will only display the items you have permissions to read.
[...] side (some machines equipped with SKF ball bearings) Central Specialty part number X-1704 Accurate replacement: 6202-5/8, Qty=2-upper wheel, 2-lower shaft Guide thrust bearings: single ball 7/32" diameter, Qty=2 Craftsman (12") 103.24250 Original wheel bearings: TBD Guide thrust bearings: single ball 7/32" diameter, Qty=2 Craftsman (12") 103.24280 Original wheel bearings: (upper) 2x Norma XF-121-PP, (lower) Federal FS-1115 Craftsman (12") 113.24330 Original wheel bearings: (upper) TBD, (lower) SKF 6203 VLG dual rubber seals Replacement [...]
[...] Drake. Originally published in The Practical Mechanic, c. 1879. pp. 42-47 BELTING While the use of belts for the transmission of power is not an American invention, the numerous improvements made in this country have caused it to be known in Europe as the American system. In Europe the greater part of the power is transmitted by cog-wheels, but in this country 99 per cent. is transmitted by belting. The latter is used everywhere, from the sewing-machine to the 500 horse-power engine. BELTS can be run in any way, at any angle, of any length, [...]
[...] in traction engines. BELTING AND TRANSMISSION OF POWER There are three kinds of belts in common use, leather, rubber and canvas. Leather has been used since very early times, but rubber and canvas have come into use within comparatively recent years. Ropes and chains are used also to transmit power, and within the past few years metallic link belting has come into use for some kinds of work. The threshermen, however, are interested directly only in the three kinds first named. The best leather belting is made [...]
[...] 2.3 - Bearings, Ball & Bronze
Ball Bearing Primer Ball Bear Revival Removing Difficult Bearings Replacement Bearing List Replacement Bearing List - Craftsman Companion Dunlap Sears Machines
2.4 - Decal Reproductions Whether you call them decals, badges, or nameplates, we have instructions on creating them plus a library of artwork that you can use. Creating Decals A collection of artwork to reproduce decals from for OWWM restorations
2.5 - Drill Presses
Restoring a Canedy-Otto New No. 16 info from Peter Sarafan (pdf) [...]
While many old timers considered cementing belts the preferred method for making a belt endless, most belts can be sufficiently jointed together by some form of lacing. In selecting the type of fastener to use, bear in mind that the joints should approximate as nearly as possible a true endless belt with as small, strong and flexible of a joint as possible. No matter what kind of fastener is used, be sure the ends are cut square using a try-square and not relying on the eye, for if the ends are not square, the joint will not be true and [...]
{rating} How to Properly Disassemble and Clean a Unisaw
Written by Keith Bohn December 27 2007 {Reference:http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=32049|http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=32049}. Quote "In reality you could dismantle and clean a Unisaw and have it all back together over a good weekend." The pictures in this wiki are of a 1953 Unisaw disassembly, and were provided courtesy of Joe Wells{Reference:http://www.joewells.org/owwm/Unisaw|http://www.joewells.org/owwm/Unisaw}. [...]
[...] here we go up or down based on completeness and condition. As an example: A base line and brand new Unisaw with Biesemeyer fence is worth $1400. Simple math tells us that half of this would be $700. Now we factor in that with the used saw's condition. A saw in horrible condition might be worth $200 to $300 depending on what is missing and what will need to be replaced. A complete saw in horrible condition might be worth $300 to $400. The same saw in good condition might be worth $500 to $600. Will we ever go over the mythical 50% mark? Not in my neighborhood. Here’s [...]
{rating}
Introduction In sheer numbers the Unisaw is one of the most widely distributed woodworking machines ever produced. Its production run spans over a half-century making it the longest running production of any table saw in history. Over the years many changes have been made to the saw. The purpose of this article is to document all the significant changes made to the saw since its introduction in 1939. The base line for this study is the 1939 No. 1450 model. The order taken in this type study is roughly from top down (table to floor) and outside in. As parts [...]
[...] first to make it loose enough to slip, then tighten it just enough to prevent slipping. V-pulleys and V-belts are in general more satisfactory for small motors than flat pulleys and belts. Small motors with low starting torque will not start if the bearings become badly worn. It should never be assumed that a starting winding is burned out until the bearings have been tested. This can usually be done by turning the motor upside down and seeing if it will start, or noting if rubbing can be detected when the motor ia turned by [...]
[...] 3-3/4" on center.
Newer Delta Serial Number Plate This aluminum serial number plate is from a 1947 Unisaw, and is attached with screws.
1947 Delta Unisaw Serial Number Plate Here is a plate from a 1980 Rockwell Model 6 Jointer
Some machines, for whatever reason, may have had their serial number plates removed or torn off, making a positive vintage identification more difficult. You can however locate the rivet or screw holes in the machine and perhaps a ghost image of the plate, and use the distance between the holes to narrow [...]
[...] 88508 ND > 88508 IF Lower: 88508 ND > 88508 IF Lift table: 5449 Nice > 3066 HV (3 required)
Delta Unisaw
Bullet Motor: 87504 (x2) 87-318 2HP 3ph 1968 Motor: MRC 205 SZZ (x2) (original?)
87-010 Motor (x2): Original: Norma S 3505 Replacement: KYK 63205 Note: I have a 1947 motor that says frame 180 Catalog No 87-010 and it takes New Departure 87504. Given this conflict with the above data it might be best to wait until the motor is open before buying bearings.
Arbor (x2): Older style with narrow (~.325 in) spacers: 88503 (bearing [...]
[...] pulley and either a 5.5" or 3.25" motor pulley. To confirm what size belt to acquire when replacing the belts, measure the diameter of the Arbor Pulley [...]
This page shows some of the main internal components of a single-phase Unisaw repulsion-start/induction run (RI) "bullet" motor. The page covers three major elements in troubleshooting and repairing internal components: - Turning the commutator and undercutting the mica
- Fabricating and replacing the shorting necklace
- Replacing the brushes The approaches and tools shown in the original entry on this page were done in a hobbiest garage-shop, using moderate level tools such as a lathe, and do not require significant machinist skills or equipment. Turning the Commutator [...]
[...] After some months of studying, acquiring tools and supplies, and working, I've completed making leather belts and tested them on one of my machines. I started with 6 sides of heavy harness leather, a linoleum knife, a 4'X8' sheet of OSB board, a straight edge that is actually the back splash of a science lab counter top. The first step was to cut the hide into "butt" and "shoulder" sections. The butt section was then squared and cut into strips running the length of the hide. The best belts come from the center of the back of the animal [...]
This is one solution for dust collection on a Delta 10" Unisaw. This funnel is my design and creation as a solution for my 1946 Delta Unisaw. It works very well for me, but there are other solutions out there. The funnel is made to fit the inside of the Unisaw cabinet closely. The vertical seams on the inside of the cabinet prevent the funnel from touching the walls of the cabinet. This small gap can be closed by either make the funnel a little larger and cutting slots in the edges to accommodate the vertical [...]
[...] already on the list. List of Sayings *n*s*w
After a bit of discussion this is a way of referring to the Unisaw. Use this as you see fit or if you’d like to stay "under the radar" with the discussion of *n*s*ws. anon Literally this is a slur at people who do not sign their messages. We are a community, no need to be shy or elusive. Arn / Old Arn Imagine you were a dirt poor truck driver from Tupelo, Mississippi. Now imagine you were vaulted to stardom and took an interest in karate, jewel studded jump suits and bad interior decorating. Now imagine yourself saying "iron". [...]
[...] process. A local machine shop can also provide this service. If the original drive pulley is damaged, a replacement can be difficult to obtain because of the extended neck. A double groove pulley could be used, aligning the outer groove with the motor pulley. Another option would be to use a NSK 885586 bearing instead of the NSK 885141. This will provide a longer shaft that will allow a standard pulley to be used. Photo 2 is a side by side comparison of the standard drive shaft ball bearing and the extended shaft bearing. The extended shaft bearing is a drop in replacement. [...]
[...] the whole. This is especially true when it comes to prices for parts. In addition to the high cost of replacement parts that might be available though the manufacturer, machinery rebuilders are also often faced with another dilemma- Some parts are simply no longer available. This double whammy has led many woodworkers to take an approach that is often overlooked- the application of a little Yankee Ingenuity. This piece is an attempt to describe the tactics this author used to make a piece usable until actual parts could be located or, in some cases, to provide what actually [...]
[...] the Centennial, which transmitted its power to the main jack shaft. The Allis engine is belted by two belts made by the Page Belting Company, of Concord, N. H., to two Westinghouse dynamos, each of a capacity of 10,000 incandescent light. The speed necessary for these machines to produce 20,000 light of sixteen candle-power is 200 revolutions. The illustration shows only one belt, but when completed the second belt will be directly over the f1rst connected to the second dynamo immediately beyond. The fly-wheel is thirty feet in diameter, and at sixty revolutions, will [...]
[...] cost of tools today to be a much better buy. In fact I've taken the $168 (plus or minus) cost of a Unisaw in 1939 and calc'd
it out to 1999 and the price should be around $1900. Of course a 1999 ain't holding a candle to the 1939 but it's still a fine saw none the less. I have not paid much attention to the various Delta drill press lines as there were so many through the years it's darn near impossible to focus on one popular model. I also lack a number of catalogs making a drill press write up difficult. Similarly, lathes suffer the same fate. The Delta Specialty [...]
[...] that fits the flat base (per frame size) of your motor- You too can fit a renegade
motor to your old Unisaw with Oval opening. Adapter Bracket made by the vacationing Ken Root and Friend for two Beers. Fits 1 hp 56 frame motor to Oval opening (old style Unisaw). [...]
[...] tappered pin holding the shaft that the arbor bracket is mounted to also. Some discussion of when the Unisaw switched from tapered pins to roll pins, then rjconley2003 shared: The roll pins are not tapered and are a lot easier to get out. You need a roll pin punch to drive them in or out correctly. The roll pin punch has a little ball on the end to keep the punch centered on the pin. I don't know when they changed to roll pins but you can tell the difference visually since the tapered pins are a solid cross section and the roll pins are hollow. Paul C reminded us [...]
[...] is built up Lubriplate on the Pinion Gear in the photo below. Standard wheel bearing grease was my replacement after cleaning. Now the quill pinion assembly is pulled out and I'll remove the Chuck and quill stop. The quill did not fall out probably due to old Lubriplate buildup, it took a little force: A little leverage to unscrew the chuck: To press out the bearings in the Quill / Spindle assembly. Loosen TWO set screws on the upper quill. They are at 90* to each other. I took mine to a local motor shop and they pressed them out. You'll need to [...]
[...] are 87504 (extended inner race one side). They can be removed with a puller or press if you have it. Replacement bearings can be pressed on or driven with a piece of pipe just large enough to slip over the shaft. The pipe must not contact anything but the inner race of the bearing. The extended race points inward. There is also a spring in one end that applies pressure to the outer race of the bearing. Be sure to replace it in the same location and orientation that it came out of. While you're in there, it's a good idea to clean the gaps between the commutator bars, [...]
[...] Belting and Care of Engine Description of differential gear. Leather belting, power belts will transmit. Canvas belts, [...]
[...] Dad was a master carpenter and has passed away. He had a shop full of tools including a 1954 Delta Unisaw that he purchased brand new in Rochester NY. Can someone help me to let me know the best place to advertise the Unisaw [...]
[...] removed to replace it) with the shaft as rusty and pitted as it is. Additionally, I will need to find a replacement pulley for the one that is broken. Missing Pulley
Here you see a shaft sticking out from the left side of the machine. I am sure that there is supposed to be a pulley on this shaft - I will have to figure out what size it needs to be and find a replacement. Missing Guide
You can see the guide on the right side of the infeed table. There should also be a guide on the other side [...]
[...] some reason, many Boice-Crane 1400's are missing their fence width locking mechanism. Here is a simple replacement made out of threaded 1/4" rod, a square nut [...]
[...] Place the top on a flat surface such as a garage floor. Put slack on the saw motor and remove the 4 v-belts. Remove blade nut and stiffener washer. Remove the end nut on the arbor #63 in drawing. Loosen the set screws holding the pulley to the arbor. Loosen completely, the collar #59 (use counterclockwise rotation). A Mallet and a square headed screwdriver work here, if the original $70. wrench is unavailable. Drive out the arbor by starting to tap the end of the arbor #58 with an appropriate tool (I used a 3/8" ratchet extension). Tap until the arbor is free of the housing [...]
[...] was about 1”longer than the original. It worked, but life would be simpler if you could get an exact replacement or even one that is slightly shorter. Unplug the unit and then disconnect the cable from the motor at the switch. Loosen the cable retainer and pull the cable out of the switch housing. The motor is suspended from a flat plate which is in turn suspended from two shafts which extend into the lathe bed casting. Remove the third shaft, which serves to prevent the motor mount from traveling upward under load. Then loosen the two Allen-head screws in the bed casting [...]