Page History: Greases and Lubrication
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Page Revision: 2008/04/04 20:10
jriowa posted a "short course" on grease here
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=31028All greases start with an oil base stock and then add thickeners. The most common base is an ISO-220 stabilized oil. The most popular thickeners are metallic "soaps". Some of them are lithium, calcium, molybdenum, and boron. The metallic particles are made into a soap through a process call "saponification". Other thickeners used are microgel clays and polyurea. Both of the later are usually special application. NLGI (National Lubricating Grease Institute) is the most common classification system in use today. Grease thickness grades are from an NLGI of "000" which is pourable to a "6" which comes in brick form. NLGI grades do not overlap and there are companies that offer some greases in half grades ( NLGI 1.5). There is also an NLGI service classification that was developed for the automotive industry. Supposedly, they are working at an industrial equivalent to ASTM D-4950 which is the automotive standard.
Automotive greases and industrial greases are not equal. Many of the automotive greases have anti-wear additives that are made from Polysulfides and/or Chlorinated esters. These additives will attack "red metals" (copper) and will pit bronze and many brass alloys. Don't useautomotive lubricants in machine tools or woodworking machines!
Lithium thickened grease is by far the most popular in use. Good for most applications and takes a fair amount of heat. Calcium is probably second in use. Calcium thickened grease tends to be a little more stable (stays mixed better) and can handle moisture better, but will not take much heat. Most electric motors and electro-mechanical assemblies are assembled with calcium thickened grease and not the "white lithium" that many claim. Then you go to molybdenum disulfide which is more expensive but does have better temperature handling capabilities but should not be used around brass or bronze bearings.
Most all of the "gun grease" is an NLGI #2. Lower numbered greases are used in gear boxes, central lube systems, and cartridge spindle assemblies. There are reasons for thinner greases and most of them are very valid. Just because a machine has a zerk on it, does not mean it takes #2! The manual is still the best place to look.
Phil Clement added a table and some comments on Oliver machines here
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=31145The following oils would probably cover most OWWM applications.
| Velocite #6 | ISO - 10 | |
| Velocite #10 | ISO -22 | |
| Vactra #1 | ISO - 32 | SAE -10 |
| Vactra #2 | ISO - 68 | SAE- 30 |
| Vactra #4 | ISO -220 | SAE- 90 |
| DTE 24 | ISO- 32 | SAE -10 |
| DTE 25 | ISO- 46 | SAE- 15 |
| DTE 26 | ISO- 68 | SAE- 20 |
| DTE light | ISO- 32 | SAE- 10 |
Other recommendations seem less clear. For example, for Oliver machines with open, oil bath bearings, speeds < 4,000 rpm. Dev and others have recommended DTE light or Vactra #1, both ISO 32 oils. Oliver literature recommends Vactra heavy medium oil. Vactra heavy medium oil seems to translates to Vactra #2 an ISO of 68. This comes from the Mobile literature and the PM site. I’m using Vactra #2 for my 116d and 166.
For grease it seems that picking your favorite NLGI 1 grease should do. If you are starting fresh a synthetic NLGI 1 grease might be a good choice, in my opinion. If you are adding grease to a machine with an unknown lubrication history it’s a bit trickier. We have discussed this in the past. The consensus was that there is no known universally compatible grease. Mixing incompatible greases can soften one or both of the greases. Does this matter? Might. Ideal is to start with a clean, non-greased bearing.
Requests were made for additional information relating to grease and lubrication. Others with more knowledge are encouraged to update this wiki to help answer these questions.
- Why certain "modern" lubricants may not be appropriate. Examples would be foaming of detergent oils and damage of copper-based (brass/bronze) gearing.
- Links to oil viscosity cross-references so that the references to certain oil weights and types in old manuals can be related to modern oils. Also would compare SAE and ISO viscosities and other characteristics.
- Requests have been made for info on grease to use in specific OWWM, as well as more general applications and information:
- babbitt bearings on a jointer
- drill press spindles
- drill press rack
- machine ways
- planer feedworks - needle bearings, chains
- variable speed pulleys
- drip rates
- exchange frequency
- temperature ranges of effectiveness
- capacities
Discussion of what type of grease and how much to put in a motor, culminates in a post from gravelygravely
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=4464Chevron SRI grease is used/recommended by just about all motor manufacturers for ball bearing use. HOWEVER, Chevron is a Polyurea based grease it can have compatibility problems with other greases. Industry recommends flushing out all old grease before re-greasing with a polyurea (Chevron CRI) grease. As to how much to add, most motors are OVER greased. One or two "shots" from a grease gun is all (about 2 teaspoons). Once a year greasing is way more than most applications need. Example, for new motors, Baldor recommends greasing motor bearings every 5,000 hours of operation (3600rpm) or 12,000 hours (1800rpm). At work, a belt driven, 15hp blower motor that runs 24/7 is greased just once a year. Motor has been in service 6+ years now no failure (~48,000 hours of use). I disagree with adding grease until it comes out when greasing a
motor. Bob is right about removing the drain plug but, most (including maint. crew at work) don't bother to remove the drain plug to allow excess grease out. With new motors there is plenty of empty room and no grease will come out of the drain for many greasings. OVER GREASING damages more MOTORS than under greasing.